A Vegan Guide for Navigating Japan

How to avoid hidden fish stock and find the absolute best food in Japan

We have returned from Japan, where we hosted two more groups on our all-inclusive vegan trips. I’ve already shared a number of articles related to Japan—some free, some for paid subscribers (thank you!)—that you might want to explore:

• Sushi Doesn’t Mean Fish: The Plant-Based Roots of Japanese Cuisine

• When Japan (Mostly) Stopped Eating Meat

• Dining with Geisha

• Ramen: A Vegan Guide to Japan’s Iconic Noodle Dish

• Tempura: The Plant-Based Origins of Japan’s Favorite Fried Dish

• Steeped in Tea

If you’ve been thinking about a trip to Japan (and who isn’t these days?), I wanted to share with you some tips and tricks for navigating Japan as a vegan (or vegetarian). In today’s article, we’ll cover:

• Why modifications aren’t a typical ask in a Japanese restaurant

• How to navigate the “invisible” fish stock found in almost everything

• The best apps and resources for finding vetted vegan spots

• What to order at sushi counters, izakayas, noodle shops, and convenience stores

• My personal, tried-and-true recommendations across Tokyo, Kyoto, Hiroshima, and Osaka

Let’s get started!

The Vegan Challenge in Japan

For decades, I have been reframing what it means to live (and eat) as a joyful vegan in a non-vegan world. One of the things I have talked about for years is the fact that “vegan” is not a separate food group. We are talking about fruits, vegetables, nuts, seeds, mushrooms, grains, legumes, herbs, and spices.

There aren’t “regular” bananas and “vegan” bananas. There are just bananas, and you know they’re suitable for vegans, because they’re a fruit.

So, when people ask me how I travel or eat out as a vegan, my answer is simple: I don’t consume a handful of things—animal-based flesh, fluids, or ferments—but I do eat a massive variety of others; hundreds, in fact. Those ‘other’ things are easy to find wherever we go. They’re called plants.

I firmly stand by the fact that the foundation of most global cuisines is plant-based. Animal meat did not become an everyday staple in the human diet until the last century.

That goes for Japan, as well, as illustrated in Sushi Doesn’t Mean Fish: The Plant-Based Roots of Japanese Cuisine. BUT, and this is a big BUT, even with those deep roots, there are specific cultural hurdles you have to navigate when you visit Japan as a traveling vegan.

The Cultural Reality of the Japanese Kitchen

To navigate Japan successfully, you have to understand a few fundamental cultural aspects of how they approach food. Unlike in the West, where “having it your way” is the norm, Japan operates on a different set of rules:

1. The Menu is Not a Suggestion: Generally speaking, Japanese restaurants do not offer modifications. The concept of “substituting” or “removing” ingredients is — similar to Italy — not part of the dining culture. What you see on the menu is exactly what will be served, so arriving with the expectation that a chef can "veganize" a standard dish on the fly isn’t how Japan operates.

2. Respect for the Chef’s Authority: There is a deep cultural understanding that the chef is the expert. When a customer asks for changes, the implication is that the chef doesn’t know what they are doing. In a culture that prizes politeness and mastery, making these requests can be seen as disrespectful.

3. The Ubiquity of Fish-Based Dashi: But the biggest hurdle of all is dashi, which is a savory stock; it’s the base for almost every sauce, soup, and seasoning. While dashi can be made from kelp (kombu), it is most commonly made with katsuobushi (dried bonito fish flakes). Because this stock is so foundational, it is often "invisible" to the person serving you. A server may genuinely believe a dish is plant-based (vegan/vegetarian) because there is no visible piece of fish, completely overlooking the fish-based stock.

As I’ve already indicated, you cannot simply show up at a restaurant and ask to have your dashi made with kombu instead of bonito flakes. What’s more, the language barrier can add to the confusion—especially in places where English menus are scarce.

So, what’s a traveling vegan to do in a culture that doesn’t typically accommodate menu changes? You have to know in advance if a restaurant is truly vegetarian- or vegan-friendly.

Fortunately, that is no longer impossible. Vegetarianism and veganism are on the rise in Japan, particularly in major cities like Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka. There is a new wave of chefs and entrepreneurs who are reclaiming plant-based traditions and creating modern, 100% vegan versions of the classics.

To navigate this landscape, you just need the right toolkit, and you’ve come to the right place. These are the specific tools we use to find abundance all over Japan and ensure every meal is truly plant-based. Let’s start with a few digital resources for finding vegan-specific or vegan-friendly eateries.

Resources for Finding Vegan-Friendly Restaurants

1. HappyCow: This remains the gold standard for navigating Japan. In major cities like Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto, it is indispensable for locating dedicated vegan restaurants or shops that explicitly understand—and offer—kombu-based dashi.

2. Google Maps: Surprisingly, this is often more up-to-date than any travel guide. Search for “vegan [city name]” and look at recent photo reviews of the menus. Many users will post photos of “Vegan Option” labels that aren’t listed on official websites.

3. Vegan and Plant-Based Stickers: Keep an eye out for "Vegan" or "Plant-Based" stickers in restaurant windows and on convenience store shelves like Lawson and FamilyMart. Thanks to the work of local advocates, these labels are a growing development in Japan and a reliable indicator that the establishment truly understands the requirements of a plant-based diet.

4. Shojin Ryori (Temple Cuisine): For a traditional plant-based experience, look for Shojin Ryori. Developed by Zen Buddhist monks 800 years ago, these multi-course meals are entirely plant-based by design, focusing on the masterful preparation of tofu, seaweed, and seasonal mountain vegetables.

5. Google Translate App: This is a lifesaver in convenience stores and rural areas. Use the camera scan feature to translate ingredient lists and menus instantly.

6. Instagram & YouTube: These platforms are great for the most current finds. Social media is where vegan foodies and influencers are constantly documenting the newest plant-based arrivals in major cities.

Typical (But Not Always) Vegan Options

For a high-level overview of dishes that are traditionally and typically plant-based and thus suitable for vegans, revisit my article, Sushi Doesn’t Mean Fish. However, there is a major distinction to be made: it is often much easier to enjoy these foods in Japanese restaurants outside of Japan.

In the United States, for example, you can usually ask for modifications—swapping a fish-based broth for a vegan one or removing a specific ingredient. In Japan, as I’ve already established, that is simply not how the dining culture functions.

This is precisely why navigating Japan as a vegan can get complicated (and is exactly why we run our all-inclusive trips to Japan each year). Navigating these nuances on your own is tricky, and we believe you should be able to experience the abundance of this culture without worrying if you’re going to lose your veganity. Below is a general guide to what is typically plant-based, but unless you are in a vegetarian/vegan restaurant, you still have to ask about the dashi.

At the Sushi Counter

In any standard sushi-ya, you can find a wealth of naturally vegan options. Look for:

• Miso Soup: A staple served at nearly every sushi counter, this soup is made from fermented soybean paste. However, it is frequently made with a katsuobushi dashi, so you must confirm it was prepared with a mushroom or seaweed-based broth instead of the standard fish base.

• Kappa Maki (Cucumber) and Avocado Rolls: These are the most consistently plant-based options, as they rely on fresh, plant-based ingredients.

• Shinko Maki / Takuan (Pickled Radish): While usually vinegar-cured, some traditional methods use a touch of bonito for depth. Ask first.

• Ume-Shiso Maki: A combination of tart pickled plum and aromatic shiso leaf. This is almost always animal-product free.

• Inari: These fried tofu pouches are a staple and inherently plant-based, but in non-vegan shops, they are almost always simmered in a bonito-based liquid. Ask first.

In Izakayas (Japanese Pubs)

Izakayas are the heart of Japanese social dining and offer a variety of "tapas-style" plates that center on vegetables.

• Edamame: Simply boiled and salted soybeans. These are naturally animal-product free and a reliable staple.

• Vegetable Tempura: While the ingredients may be plant-based (root vegetables like pumpkin, lotus root, sweet potato), tempura batter often contains chicken’s eggs, and the dipping sauce is almost universally made with fish-based dashi. Ask about the batter, and request salt (shio) for dipping instead of the sauce.

• Agedashi Tofu: Deep-fried silken tofu in a savory broth. The broth (tsuyu) is almost universally bonito-based in standard shops. Ask first.

• Nasu Dengaku: Miso-glazed eggplant. While the glaze is typically plant-based, some kitchens thin the miso with dashi, so a quick check is recommended.

• Kinpira Gobo: A savory stir-fry of burdock and carrots. Typically plant-based, though some versions use a splash of fish stock for umami.

• Tsukemono: Assorted pickled vegetables like daikon and cucumber. While these are the definition of plant-based abundance, some regional varieties use fish-based ferments, so it’s worth a brief inquiry.

At Noodle Shops

Noodles are the backbone of Japanese comfort food, but they are also where fish-based dashi is most foundational to the broths and sauces. Below are the common varieties you’ll encounter; I’ve also included a list of specific, vetted restaurants further down that are entirely vegan-friendly.

• Udon: These thick wheat noodles are generally served two ways: as a stir-fried dish (yaki udon) or in a broth. Unfortunately, both often contain katsuobushi dashi (made with bonito flakes). Even if you order a vegetable yaki udon or udon in soup, it is likely not plant-based unless the shop specifically uses a plant-based dashi. Inquire first.

• Soba: Made from buckwheat, soba is a Japanese favorite that can be eaten cold with a dipping sauce, as a salad, or in a hot broth. Even though the noodles themselves are typically made with plants only, the dipping sauce and hot broths are commonly made with katsuobushi dashi. Ask first.

• Ramen: Traditional ramen is built on a long-simmered animal-based stock, and even “vegetable” ramen in a standard shop often uses a meat base. Because you cannot simply “modify” the broth at a traditional counter, you must target shops that have built a plant-based bowl from the ground up. (See below.)

Street Foods and Snacks

You’ll find an array of street vendors and local food markets lining the entrances to major shrines and temples, and some of them may be appropriate for vegans. While these staples are largely plant-based, keep an eye out for hidden seasonings.

• Daifuku: Soft mochi stuffed with sweet red bean paste (anko). Typically animal-product free.

• Ichigo Daifuku: A whole strawberry and red bean paste wrapped in mochi. (MY FAVORITE!) Watch for versions containing whipped cream.

• Yatsuhashi: A famous Kyoto specialty made of soft, folded triangles of cinnamon mochi wrapped around sweet bean paste. Most traditional versions are naturally vegan, but check the labels on modern flavors for dairy.

• Warabi Mochi: Jelly-like starch cubes dusted with roasted soybean flour (kinako). Naturally plant-based.

• Dango: A traditional Japanese sweet, chewy dumpling made from rice flour and often served on skewers. They are a popular snack typically enjoyed with toppings like sweet red bean paste (anko), green tea (cha dango), or a sweet-savory soy sauce glaze (and are thus multi-colored.)

• Daigaku Imo: Deep-fried sweet potatoes with a hard, glassy sugar glaze. Sooo good! This is a popular, naturally plant-based street food. Some recipes may use dairy butter or honey, so check first.

• Grilled Corn: Fresh corn on the cob brushed with soy sauce and grilled. Confirm they are not using dairy-baed butter, which is common at modern stalls.

In Convenience Stores (Konbini) and Supermarkets

Japan’s convenience stores—famously clean, efficient, and everywhere—can be surprisingly helpful for vegan travelers. Chains like 7-Eleven, FamilyMart, and Lawson (especially Natural Lawson) carry a growing selection of plant-based items. (Use your translation app on your phone to check ingredients.)

• Onigiri (Rice Balls): Grab these filled with umeboshi (pickled plum) or seaweed, both of which are typically plant-based. Avoid varieties with tuna, salmon, or mayonnaise.

• Quick Snacks: Edamame, plain salads with sesame dressing, and fruit cups are reliable and refreshing options. At Natural Lawson, you can often find soy-based meat alternatives, plant-based protein bars, and almond or soy milk drinks.

• In Supermarkets: Stock up on tofu, natto (fermented soybeans), fresh vegetables, and ready-to-eat rice packs. You can also find instant miso soup, but you must check for fish-free dashi.

• Inari Sushi: Fried tofu pouches simmered in a sweet soy liquid and stuffed with vinegared rice. These are affordable, filling, and widely available.

Recommended Restaurants in Japan

While you should always check apps like HappyCow for the most up-to-date details on vegan restaurants these are the specific spots I highly recommend—vetted either through my own frequent visits or by trusted sources within the vegan community.

Okonomiyaki (Savory Pancakes)

Okonomiyaki is notoriously difficult to find vegan because the batter usually requires egg and fish dashi. These spots have created dedicated vegan versions:

• Tokyo

  • Sakura-tei. This is a funky, art-filled spot where they have a clearly marked vegan okonomiyaki on the menu, which you cook it yourself on the teppan grill at your table.

• Kyoto

  • Gion Tanto. Located in the heart of the Gion district, they offer a delicious “Soy Meat Okonomiyaki” and vegan negiyaki (green onion pancake) with a dedicated vegan sauce.

• Hiroshima

  • Jirokichi (Jiro’s Kitchen). We have been here personally several times and highly recommend it! Beside okonomiyaki, they also have other fantastic plant-based dishes such as grilled seasonal vegetables.

  • Nagataya. A famous spot for Hiroshima-style (noodle) okonomiyaki. They have a separate vegan menu and use a special animal-free sauce that tastes just as rich as the original.

  • Roku. Another fantastic option in the city that offers a dedicated vegan okonomiyaki with all the traditional flavors.

• Osaka

  • Aju. A small, cozy vegan izakaya serving plant-based versions of staples like okonomiyaki and yakitori. It is a one-person operation, so be prepared for a wait; the owner often limits service to four customers at a time to ensure every dish is perfect. He is also a massive cat lover—you'll find cat-related items for sale all over the shop!

  • OKO Okonomiyaki Bar. A legendary, friendly spot in Shinsaibashi. While they serve various diets, they have an extensive and famous vegan menu including okonomiyaki, gyoza, and yakisoba.

  • Osaka: OKO Takoyaki. Located in Shinsaibashi, this is a fully vegan spot specializing in takoyaki (savory “octopus” balls, made here with okara) and kushikatsu (deep-fried skewers).

Pro-Tip from the Hip: The dark, sweet okonomiyaki sauce is almost always vegan, but the creamy white mayonnaise is traditionally made with chicken’s eggs. At these vetted vegan-friendly shops, they will typically offer a vegan mayonnaise—just be sure to confirm it’s the plant-based version before you drizzle it on.

Ramen

Because you cannot “modify” a traditional meat-based ramen broth, you have to go to shops that have built a vegan bowl from scratch.

• Tokyo

  • Kyushu Jangara. My absolutely favorite ramen in the world! A popular local chain specializing in Tonkotsu-style ramen that has become a hero for the vegan community. Most of their locations offer dedicated vegan ramen, but they also have a fully plant-based flagship in Harajuku.

  • Vegan Bistro Jangara. Located on the 2nd floor (right above their standard Harajuku shop), the entire menu here is plant-based. Beyond their famous ramen, they serve fantastic izakaya-style dishes like vegan gyoza, karaage, and even “sizzling” soy meat plates.

  • T’s TanTan (Tokyo Station & Ueno Station). This is 100% vegan and famous for its rich, creamy sesame-based tantanmen. It’s a staple for any vegan traveler.

  • Jikasei Mensho. Located in the Shibuya Parco shopping center, this modern shop has four dedicated vegan options, including a spicy vegan miso and vegan dandan noodles.

• Kyoto

  • Kyoto Engine Ramen: A local favorite that offers a fantastic vegan ramen we go to every time we’re there (sometimes several times). Be prepared for long waits, as this spot is incredibly popular—your best bet is to get there right when they open.

  • Uno Yukiko (Gion Soy Milk Ramen): This is the ultimate stop for creamy comfort. Created by a “Soy Milk Patissier,” this 100% vegan and gluten-free shop serves rich, elegant bowls in the heart of Gion. Their Dandan noodles and soy milk-based broths are so clean and flavorful you’ll want to drink every last drop.

  • Vegan Ramen UZU. This isn't just a meal; it's an experience. Their Kyoto branch has a larger menu, but the Tokyo location at teamLab Planets is iconic. Pro-Tip from the Hip: Book ahead of time; it’s small and fills up fast.

International Cuisine

While having the full Japanese experience is what we prioritize for our trips, if you’re on your own looking for familiar sustenance, don’t overlook the international dining scene. Japan—especially cities like Tokyo and Osaka—is obsessed with global cuisines, and these restaurants can often be a “safe harbor” for vegans because their base ingredients are naturally plant-based.

• Italian: Italian food is incredibly popular in Japan.

  • What to look for: Focus on Marinara pizzas (which are traditionally and naturally free of dairy cheese) or pasta with tomato or garlic and oil bases, such as Aglio e Olio.

• Indian: This is one of the most reliable options for vegans in Japan. Like anywhere, just ask them to leave out the ghee (clarified butter) when preparing your dish.

  • What to look for: Look for Dal (lentil stew), Chana Masala (chickpeas), or vegetable curries.

• Chinese: You will find Chinese restaurants everywhere, but similar to Japanese cooking, Chinese cuisine often uses chicken or pork stock as a base for stir-fry sauces. Just ask.

  • What to look for: Mapo Tofu (request it without minced meat), stir-fried seasonal greens, and vegetable gyoza.

In subsequent articles, we’ll tackle other aspects of Japanese cuisine and culture, including those listed below. Be sure to upgrade to enjoy all of these articles and support the work that goes into creating these resources.

• The Many Faces of the Ancient Soybean

• The Regional Art of Okonomiyaki

• Traditional Japanese Sweets

• From Matcha to Malt: A Drinker’s Guide

• Japanese Street Food: The Yatai Tradition

Additional Resources

👉 Connect with me 1:1 – Get personalized guidance whatever you are looking for. (One one-on-one connection is also a perk of the Founding Member/VIP level here on Substack.)

👉 Read A Year of Compassion – Daily inspiration to help you live with intention, kindness, and clarity.

👉 Travel with me! I host animal-friendly, luxury, all-inclusive vegan trips around the world, specifically curated to ensure high-quality, high-touch premium experiences. Check out our upcoming trips, and let me know if you have any questions.

👉 Check out my Recipe E-Books and my library of On-Demand Cooking Classes for recipes.

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